The Perfect Introduction

It is so hard to believe it has already been a month since we arrived in Cusco, Peru and that we are already 1/12th of the way through our trip! This month has been magical in so many ways. We have faced many challenges (there is a steep learning curve to international travel with young children), but they have only added to the sense of adventure. Here are just some of this month’s greatest take-aways, surprises and memorable experiences.

We arrived in Cusco disheveled, exhausted and, unfortunately for my son and myself, quite sick. We coughed non-stop for the first week we were here and couldn’t even sleep through the night which added a layer of difficulty to those early days. In addition to being sick, we had greatly underestimated how COLD Cusco would be and we really struggled the first few weeks to stay warm. The days are nice (in the 60’s and sunny) but the nights and mornings are freezing, which wouldn’t be such a problem except that none of the buildings have any insulation or heaters so it is even colder inside than outside. Fortunately, our apartment that we booked for the month on AirBnB before arriving has been so perfect for us in every other way so we have learned to adapt to the cold and just always wear our shoes and jackets inside the house. Our apartment is located just outside of the touristy area of San Blas and only a 10 minute walk to the beautiful Plaza de Armas in the heart of the historic district. We sit above a restuarant, on the same corner as a great little grocery store, and a stone’s throw from a park and basketball court where the kids can let out some energy. Our days have been much busier than we anticipated so it has been nice to have a safe haven to come home to every afternoon and evening.

One of the first lessons we learned on this trip, and one that we will heed in the months to come, is how quickly and easily we can fill up every moment in our schedule if we’re not careful. Between Spanish classes and study, work (remote real estate for Rochelle), basic parenting (like naps, meals, baths etc.) and the endless succession of cultural events and sightseeing, we found very little time for rest or relaxation. We aren’t complaining…we got to see and do so much in this first month and we are very grateful for the dozens of beautiful memories that were created, we just know we cannot sustain this pace for an entire year so we will need to make some adjustments.

To be fair, we didn’t realize that June is THE month to visit Cusco. Because their biggest holiday, Inti Raymi (a celebartion of the Incan sun God Inti), falls on June 24th, the entire month is filled with endless parades, celebrations and fesitivities. The kids experienced more marching bands and fireworks in this last month than in their entire lives back in the states. We had the incredible privilege of learning about many of the festivals from our Spanish teachers and also our amazing nanny Cinthia. On the day of Inti Raymi, we made the pilgrimage from Qoricancha up to Saqsaywaman where we participated in the traditional cooking of potatoes in a “huathia” which is a handmade oven made out of dirt that is dug up from the ground. We feasted on potatoes with cheese and homemade salsa and got a literal taste of life during the time of the Incas. Fairs are popular here and the kids have loved going on rides, seeing dozens of alpaca and llamas at the Feria Huancaro and indulging in full plates of “chicharron” with choclo, onions and, of course, potatoes. We have spent the weekends heading outside of Cusco to a few lesser-known parts of the region such as Ccorca (where bones of Incan people can still be found stuffed into crevices in the side of the mountains), Hausao and Urubamba (where we will live for the next 2 months).

In addition to all of the sightseeing and exploration, we sat in many coffee shops where we studied and worked, Don got to mountain bike around the mountains surrounding Cusco a handful of times, I got to participate in a few yoga classes and, of course, we visited many parks and markets with the kids. The logistics of travel are definitely multiplied when you add in two young children. We were fortunate enough to have a nanny during the weekdays from 7:30am-1:30pm every day and that helped us out a lot, but it still left us navigating many hours of every day with the kids in tow. From making sure we had enough food, toilet paper and diapers/wipes in the house to ensuring Soleil got a nap and Jovi had some downtime every day, we found ourselves facing many of the same “adulting” challenges and tasks on the road as we encounter back home, but in a completely different culture and environment than we are used to. It is precisely this challenge that we love, but it is also a little daunting and sometimes exhausting.

Day after day we agree that any challenge we face is well worth it because of the simple fact that we love this culture, these people, this language and this environment so much and we are so grateful that we get to share it with our children. The kids are truly adored here. We can’t go anywhere without women of all ages touching their hair, giving them hugs or doting on them with words of adoration. It is so refreshing to be in a place that truly cherishes children and accepts them for who

they are and where they are in their development. When the children misbehave (which they do regularly) there is never any judgment…only concern and a shared understanding that this too will pass and that they will learn at their own pace what is socially acceptable. As a family, we have enjoyed so many aspects of this culture together, including the fresh and tasty food which the kids have bravely indulged in, the language which we use a little more of everyday, and the sense of family and community that permeates every interaction and event.

This month has been so enlightening and has already begun to inform the rest of our travel plans. We leave today to head to Urubamba for the next two months, a town located in the Sacred Valley about one hour north of Cusco. We are excited for Jovi to attend an elementary school there with the children of some American friends we met years ago when Don and I came through Cusco on our last South American trip. Urubamba is warmer than Cusco, much smaller, and has a strong expat community and excellent mountain biking. We are looking forward to having a little more time on our hands and hopefully acclimating to life in this small Andean town. My mother will visit at the end of August and we can’t wait to show her all around one of our favorite places and then travel with her to La Paz, Bolivia where we now plan on spending one month (because it, too, will be quite cold). From La Paz the current plan is to spend one month in Brazil (the warm beaches and vibrant culture are calling), 2 months in Bariloche, Argentina, one month traveling through Patagonia, and finally 4 months exploring Central America. We tagged on an extra month for that part of our trip because there is so much to see and with a great climate and close proximity to the states, we are curious to see if any particular Central American location will draw us in for a longer stay. There are still so many unknowns, but we feel ourselves settling into this experience and we are more confident now than ever before that not only can we survive this year abroad with our children, but that it will indeed change all of our lives for the better.